TOOL

Mahogany back & sides

Dry, focused and punchy — the working musician’s back wood.

A bookmatched mahogany back set
Specifications
Typical density0.53 – 0.65 g/cm³
ToneDry, focused, strong fundamental, fast decay
GrainInterlocked, straight to lightly figured
ColourReddish brown, darkening with age
Common speciesHonduran, Sapele, Khaya (African)
Typical useBacks, sides and necks on steel-string guitars
Technical parameters
Side thickness2.0 – 2.3 mm before bending
Back thickness2.4 – 2.8 mm
Bending temperature150 – 165 °C with a bending iron
Moisture at glue-up6 – 8 percent
StabilityVery good; low seasonal movement
Price bandModerate
MahoganyGenuine / SapeleSelect

Mahogany gives a guitar a dry, fundamental-heavy voice with a fast decay. Where rosewood adds a wash of overtones, mahogany stays out of the way: chords sound clean, single notes stay defined, and the guitar records without the low-end boom that has to be equalised out later.

It is also dimensionally stable and pleasant to work, which is why it has been the standard back and side wood for a century. Genuine (Honduran) mahogany is the traditional choice; Sapele is the usual modern substitute and is slightly harder and brighter.

Where this fits: SelectChoose and season the wood. Species, grain, stiffness and moisture content are settled here, and nothing later can undo a bad choice made at this stage.

At this stage

Mahogany bends cleanly at a moderate temperature and holds the shape without much spring-back. It is the most forgiving wood to learn side bending on.

Suits these instruments

  • Dreadnought
  • OM / Orchestra
  • Parlour
  • Archtop

Works with

  • Spruce top
  • Titebond or hide glue
  • Nitrocellulose lacquer
  • Truss rod
Safety
  • Mahogany dust is a respiratory sensitizer. Extraction or a respirator is required when sanding or routing.
  • Bending irons run at 150 °C and above. Burns are the common injury in this step — keep your hands behind the wood and use a wet cloth.

Working notes

  • Scrape the sides after bending rather than sanding them — sanding fuzzes the interlocked grain.
  • Match the back and side sets for colour before you start; a mismatched set is obvious under a clear finish.
  • Mahogany necks are stiffer and lighter than they look, which is why the same species turns up in both roles.
  • Sapele is harder than genuine mahogany and will dull edge tools faster.

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