TOOL
Ebony fretboard
Hard, slick and black — the fretboard that stays put.
| Typical density | 1.05 – 1.25 g/cm³ |
|---|---|
| Hardness | Very high — resists fret wear and finger divots |
| Grain | Fine, straight to slightly interlocked |
| Colour | Jet black to streaked brown-black |
| Common species | Gaboon ebony, Macassar ebony |
| Typical use | Fretboards, bridges, nuts and bridge pins |
| Fretboard thickness | 5 – 7 mm finished |
|---|---|
| Radius | Commonly 254 mm (10 in) to 406 mm (16 in) |
| Moisture at glue-up | 6 – 8 percent |
| Slot tolerance | ±0.05 mm for good intonation |
| Finishing | Left bare, oiled lightly; do not lacquer |
| Price band | High |
Ebony is the hardest and densest common fretboard wood. It wears slowly, feels slick under the fingers, and its stiffness adds a crisp, defined attack to the note. It is the traditional choice on classical guitars and high-end electrics.
Its density is also its problem. Ebony moves very little with humidity, which is good, but it is heavy and it can be brittle at the edges. It needs a stable, well-seasoned neck under it, and it wants a slotting saw that is genuinely sharp.
At this stage
Ebony is hard enough to blunt a dull saw immediately. Slot it with a proper fret saw and check the depth against the tang on every slot, not just the first.
Suits these instruments
- Classical
- Electric
- Acoustic (premium)
- Bass
Works with
- Maple or mahogany neck
- Fret wire
- Nut file set
- Fret press
- Ebony dust is a fine, dark, respirable dust and a known irritant. Extraction and a respirator are required when slotting or radius-sanding.
- Ebony chips and splits at the edges. Support the board along its length when clamping.
Working notes
- Wipe the board with naphtha before gluing — ebony is oily and glue joints fail without it.
- Do not lacquer an ebony board. Seal it with a light oil or leave it bare.
- Macassar ebony is streaked rather than black; it is a different look, not a lesser wood.
- A radius block and a straight sanding bar are the difference between a level board and a fret job that never plays clean.
Related
Spruce top
The default soundboard: stiff along the grain, light, and loud.
Cedar top
Opens fast, plays warm, and marks if you look at it wrong.
Mahogany back & sides
Dry, focused and punchy — the working musician’s back wood.
Rosewood back & sides
Deep bass, long sustain, and a wall of overtones.